Today I am going to discuss about the importance of Self
shade and Shade card, and I will also discuss about Panton where it is
necessary.
Firstly I want to discuss about self shade.
Self Shade- Self Shade is the shade of each single dye. There are different kinds of dye, like – Direct dye, Pigment dye, Reactive die, Discharge Direct dye, etc generally used in washing factory for over dyeing of the garments.
So, self shade is very necessary for giving color related recipe
and decisions. For systematic dyeing process its very necessary.
Each and every dyeing and washing factory that uses dyes
they must have the self shade of their regular dye stuff they use.
The dye absorbency is different based on different type of
fabric cellulose content. Like – pure cotton has the most absorbency where for
example - mixed polyester22% + cotton75% + spandex3% fabric will absorb less
dye and the shade will look light showing in that case. So, lab dipping is the
actual solution to find the perfect recipe of the dye applicable on the
specified fabric.
Shade Card:
Shade card is generally supplied by the dye supplier. Each supplier generally tries to say that their dye stuff is good quality than other dyestuff running in the market. But the technical person will have to select the right one for them after several trials from some different suppliers.
Dye supplier has the tendency to keep their shade card depth more than it’s actual. So the technical person has to test the dye before application. Technical person will put some lab dip of different shades, check the color fastness to wash physically after test, and also the more important thing is that, how much quantity is necessary, because more dye use means more cost, and also using too much dye in dyeing bath may cause dye diffusion which may cause finally the problem of metal test failure or rubbing test failure/ poor wash fastness and also same about the light fastness. So, the technicians have to select the correct one which is actually cost effective, with good lab testing property, and also easy to use.
Shade card is important because:
1) Dye basic shade is shown there
2) Dye lab property like- color fastness to
rubbing/washing/light is shown on the card
3) Dyeing process is mentioned in the shade card.
4) Discharge ability is also shown there, so the technician
can easily understand if the dye is Potash bleach/Bleaching applicable or not.
Uses of Panton Book:
Panton book, especially TCX- (Textile Cotton Planner), is used in the most color related work. TCX is more useful than TPX for textile factories because it’s easy to match color level 5-5 using TCX – Vs. – Cotton fabric.
But TPX – Vs. – Cotton fabric is hazy to match color also TPX swatches reflect more light than TCX swatches and that is a problem.
The Panton book has 2310 color in the update volume. Each
color is different than other color.
-
Use: Like foreign buyer from Germany said: to dye
specified fabric in: 18-1662-TCX which is a specified color. The factory is
located in Bangladesh and they don’t need to find the color, just need the Panton
book and find the page-column-row of the TCX. After then factory can easily dye
the fabric/garments and send to the buyer for review.
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Also light source for the color shade checking
should be same as buyer.
-
Like if buyer uses D65, then factory will have
to use D65 light source. Again if buyer uses TL84, then factory will check the
color in TL84 in that case, so that the final output does not become different
in two different places.
Light Source:- Manufacturing factory must have X-rite spectrolight /
artificial D65 light source as most of the buyer recommends d65 as their
primary light source.
X-Rite Spectrolight
A LAB DIPPING MACHINE:_
Author-
K M Zahidur Rahman
Executive- R&D
Hameem Group
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