DYEING LAB DIP & SELF SHADE FORMULATION- for Washing factory

Dye stock solution preparation:-

Stock Solution %	USE	Dye weight	Water Required	1 ml pipette -equivalent
0.1 %	Tinting shade	0.5 gram	500 ml	1 mg dye
0. 25 %	Light shade	0.5 gram	200 ml	2.5 mg dye
0.5 %	Medium shade (Generally used for wide range lab dip formulation)	1 gram	200ml	5 mg dye
1 %	Medium darker shade	2 grams	200ml	10 mg dye
2 %	Very dark shade	4 grams	200 ml	20 mg dye
10 %	Ultra dark shade	20 grams	200 ml	100 mg dye

G. Salt/ Soda stock solution preparation:-

Stock Solution %	Water Required	Sodium Sulfate Anhydrous (Glover Salt) Soda ASH Light/Soda	1 ml pipette–equivalent
20 %	1000 ml	200 grams	200 mg Salt/Soda
	4000 ml	800 grams
	3000 ml	600 grams
	200 ml	40 grams

Reactive dye self shade preparation calculation:-

Sl. No.	Shade Percentage %	Dye Solution (ml)	Clean Water – (ml)	Salt (From- Stock Solution-20%)	Soda (From- Stock Solution-20%)
1	0.05 %	0.5 ml	44 ml	0.5 ml	5 ml each pot to control PH = 12
2	0.1 %	1 ml	43 ml	1 ml
3	0.3 %	3 ml	39 ml	3 ml
4	0.5 %	5 ml	35 ml	5 ml
5	1.0 %	10 ml	25 ml	10 ml
6	1.5 %	15 ml	15 ml	15 ml
7	2.0 %	20 ml	5 ml	20 ml
8	2.5 %	25 ml	20 ml	5 grams
9	3.0 %	30 ml	15 ml	6 grams
10	5.0 %	50 ml	-	10 grams	1 gram (1000mg)

Reactive dye lab dip parameters:-

1)      Fabric weight- 2.5 gram and M:L = 1:20 (2.5 grams x 20 = 50 ml water)

2)      60ºC temperature – 60 minutes run time.

3)      Wash- Normal Wash with normal water, Sopping wash for removing unfixed dye from the swatch fabric, Fixing- if necessary.

4)      Reactive dye only works at the P^H Range- 10.5 to 12. So, no maximum colors will absorb on the fabric cellulose if soda is not used.

5)      For very darker shade Caustic Soda (NaOH) can be used to peak up the dyeing process in the maximum level. If caustic soda is necessary to add in the bath then must be added slowly in the solution form because of controlling the unevenness and shade variation of the garments/fabric.

6)      Liquor Ratio- M: L= 1:20 for hard and thick (high-GSM) fabrics and M: L=1:10 for low GSM light weight fabrics. But, M: L = 1:10 is better for reactive dyeing.

7)      G.Salt& Soda Calculation professionals Standard:-

		alkali mixture		only soda ash
% dyestuff	salt g/l	soda ash g/l	caustic soda solution 38 Be ml/l	Soda ash g/l
below 0.1 %	10	5	-	5
0.1% – 0.5%	20	10	-	10
0.5% - 1.0%	30	5	1.0	15
1.0% - 2.0%	40	5	1.5	15
2.0% - 4.0%	60	5	2.0	20
4.0% - 6.0%	80	5	3.0	25
above 6.0%	90	5	3.5	25

Another regular process:-

Dyes	%	0.5-1	1-1.5	1.5-2	2-3	3-5	above 5
Glaube r’s Salt	g/l	20-50	50-60	60-70	70	80	80
Soda ash	g/l	10	10-15	15-20	15-20	20	25

8)      Dyes should be diluted in warm water.

9)      G. Salt- used for reaching the dyes in every places of the bath and absorb more dye in the fabriccellulose. The more G. Salt the more dye absorption.

Soda- used for increasing P^H level and fixing the dye in the cellulose.

Lab dip auxiliaries calculation theoretically used in knit dyeing industries:-

Total Shade %	G- Salt	Soda
0.001%  – to – 0.5%	20%	4%
0.5%  – to – 1.0%	30%	8%
1.0%  – to – 2.0%	36%	10%
2.0%  – to – 3.0%	44%	12%
3.0%  – to – 4.0%	50%	14%
4.0%  – to – 5.0%	60%	18%
5.0%  – to – 7.0%	70%	20%
7.0%  – to – up to above	80%	20%

Shade percentage %	G- Salt (gpl)	Soda Ash (gpl)	Caustic Soda (gpl)	PH Range in the bath
Below- 0.1%	15 gpl	6 gpl	-	10.2- 10.3
0.1% - to – 0.5%	20 gpl	8 gpl	-	10.3-10.4
0.5% - to – 0.7%	25 gpl	10 gpl	-	10.4-10.5
0.7% - to – 1.0%	35 gpl	12 gpl	-	10.5-10.6
1.0% - to – 2.0%	45 gpl	16 gpl	-	10.6-10.7
2.0% - to – 3.0%	55 gpl	18 gpl	-	10.7-10.8
3.0% - to – 4.0%	65 gpl	5 gpl	1.2 gpl	11
4.0% - to – 5.0%	75 gpl	5 gpl	1.5 gpl	11- 11.1
5.0% - to – above	90 gpl	5 gpl	1.8 gpl	11.1- 11.25
up to – 10%	100 gpl	5 gpl	-	12

Various particles like Wetting agent (Sopping- without foaming) , Sequestering agent, anti-pilling agent, leveling agent, etc are used in dying process to keep the finished fabrics characteristic quality. 

ex- Leveling of Polyester fabric:-                                        

1) Dispersing agent (Univerdin DIF) - 1 g/l

2) Dispersing agent(Univerdin Top) - 2 g/l

3) Oxizing agent (Albatex AR) - 1.00 g/l

4) PH buffer (Cibates-AB45) - 0.75 g/l

Self shade Percentage calculation for Direct Dyes:-

Sl. No.	Shade Percentage %	Dye Solution (ml)	Clean Water – (ml)	Salt (From- Stock Solution-5%)
1	0.05 %	0.5 ml	49 ml	0.5 ml
2	0.1 %	1 ml	48 ml	1 ml
3	0.3 %	3 ml	44 ml	3 ml
4	0.5 %	5 ml	40 ml	5 ml
5	1.0 %	10 ml	30 ml	10 ml
6	1.5 %	15 ml	20 ml	15 ml
7	2.0 %	20 ml	10 ml	20 ml
8	2.5 %	25 ml	25 ml	25 ml
9	3.0 %	30 ml	20 ml	1.500 grams
10	5.0 %	50 ml	-	2.500 grams

Glaube r’s salt 5% stock solution preparation = 50 grams salt diluted in 1000 ml water. ( 150 grams salt in 3 liter water)

Direct dye lab dip parameters: -

1)      Fabric weight- 2.5 gram and M:L = 1:20 (2.5 grams x 20 = 50 ml water)

2)      95- 99ºC temperature – 30 minutes run time.

3)      Wash- Normal Wash with normal water, Sopping wash for removing unfixed dye from the swatch fabric, Fixing- if necessary.

4)      Direct dye does not need to use soda ash but if the shade is too dark color then soda can be used in that case as per dyes supplier’s instruction/ shade card.

5)      G. Salt Calculation professionals Standard:-

dye	%	below 0.5	0.5-1.0	1.0-1.5	1.5-2.0	above 2%	Navy & Black
Glauber’s Salt	g/l	1-5	5-10	10-15	15-20	20	20-30

DYES RECIPE CALCULATION PRACTICALLY:-

v  Lab dip recipe-

o   Dark Blue GLP = 0.441%

o   Blue 3G = 0.7%

o   Yellow SF2RL = 0.0455%

o   Red BWS = 0.028

o   Auxiliaries: Salt = 15 gpl, 90ºC – 15 minutes run time; M:L = 1:20; F_wt = 2.5 grams

Total Sp% = (0.441 + 0.7 + 0.0455 + 0.028) = 1.2145 % is to consider G-Salt = 15 g/l

v  Bulk Calculation-

Example- for – 1.8 kg fabrics

Note- 1800 = 1.8 kg fabric

20 = M: L which is Liquor ratio (L/R)

Water Required :- (1.8 x 20) = 36 Liter        [20 = M: L which is Liquor ratio (L/R)]

Dye calculation for LAB recipe to Sample stage, First trial on Leg tube: 

Example Lab recipe:-

            Ross FR – 0.5%

            Yellow SF2RL – 0.2%

            Salt – 9gpl

[(M: L = 1.20), F_wt – 2.5 grams]

∑LR = (2.5 x 50) = 50 ∑LR →Total LR

Now, for A leg tube of 100 grams in the larger washing machine of which water taking capacity minimum 50 Liter- the calculation will be , i.e:- 

Using Formula:   Ross FR = (0.5 × 100 × 20) / 1000 = 1 gram

                             Yellow SF2RL = (0.2× 100 × 20) / 1000 = 0.4 gram

Now, this 1 gram Ross FR can be applied in the LR = 100 × 20 = 2000ml [As, M:L=1:20] Or, 2 Liter water, where it is not possible in this larger type washing machine, so , it is necessary to calculate the dye in gram per liter (gpl). 

So, Ross FR – 2 Liter → 1 gram dyes applicable.

So, in 50 Liter of water – Required dye = (50÷2) × 1 = 25 gram dye.

So, in 50 Liter of water – Required dye = (50÷2) × 0.4 = 10 gram dye.

Salt, 9~10 gram per liter 50 × 10 = 0.5 Kg salt dozing

As, Water could be 50~80 Liter so salt application should be enhanced double. 

So, Ross FR = 25 grams & Yellow SF2RL = 10 grams, Salt = 1 kg, Water – 50 Liter, Leg Tube garment Fabric weight- 100 grams. 

The Run time should be as per Lab dip timing.    

       

-Required dye for Larger Bulk from the initial sample stage:-

=[(Sp% x Fwt in grams  x  £LR) ÷ (1000)] gm

- £LR = [(Previously Used dye in Grams x Present LR) ÷ Previous  LR]

EX- (25 g Dk. blue GL x Present LR 14.4) ÷ Previous LR 62.5.  

 = 5.76 value of £LR

Example-

                 Previous batch - 3 pcs garments 800 grams, Water-50 Ltr Approximately. LR= 1: 62.5

Color dye- Dk blue GL= 25 grams(SP%- 3.125)

                   Black NF = 5 grams(SP%-0.625)

                   Red Bws = 1.1 grams(SP%-0.138)

So, using the formula for the present batch of fabric - 12.5 kg (47 pcs garments), Water -180 Ltr Approximately.

Dark blue GL =(3.125x 12500 x 5.76)÷ 1000= 225 grams dye

Black NF = (0.625 x 12500 x 5.76)÷ 1000 = 45 grams dye

Red BWS = (0.138 x 12500 x 5.76) ÷ 1000 = 9.94 grams dye

Formula to calculate Bulk recepi in Lab- (Combined color for different color combinations)

Required dye from solution = (Sp%  x  F_wt in grams x LR) ÷ (1 ml ~ equivalent of the stock solution  of the dye)

                                                                                                         Ex- 0.5 % stock soln @ 1ml ~ 5 mg dye;

                                                                                                                1.0% stock soln @ 1ml ~ 10mg dye;

2.0% stock soln @ 1ml ~ 20mg dye.

So, Shade % = (100 x 0.15) / (16 x 2)

= 0.469% [shade percentage from the bulk recipe]

Note- To increase or decrease the color of bulk recipe this shade percentage is found out to calculate addition or distraction.

# Direct dyes works on neutral media.

# Using much more salt and soda in reactive dyeing could help to fix the color strongly but for quick dyeing it may cause unwanted crease mark.

Example - Salt -90 gpl& Soda- more than its necessary.

Grey fabric scouring Recipe- (Draft)

# Fabric Quantity: -             100 grams 100% Cotton Fabric

Steps↓	Water Level (Liter)	Chemical/ Dyes Name		Weight↓			PH	Temp x°C	Run Ƭʹ	Re-marks
De-Size	35-40	Anti Back Staining agent		100g				50°C	10 min	Rins/2
		Caustic Soda (NAOH)		50 g
		Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2)		100g
Neutral	40	R-Acid/Acetic Acid		40g			6.0	R/T	5 min	Rins/1
Bleaching	40	Calcium hypo chlorate-  [Ca(ClO)Cl]		100g				40°C	5 min/ Check	Rins/2
Neutral	40	Meta/ Hypo Sodium Meta Bi Sulphate / Sodium Thio-Sulphate		1 g/Lt				40°C	10 min	Rins/2
Cleaning	40	Caustic Soda		50g				50°C	10 min	Rins/2
		Soda Ash		100g
		Hydrogen Peroxide		100g
Neutral/ Acid Wash	40	Acetic Acid (Ross Acid N-liquid)		1g/lt			< 7	R/T	2-3 min	Rins/1
Enzyme	40	Acid Enzyme-		50g			4.5	40	15-20ʹ check	Rins/2
		Acetic Acid (Ross Acid)		20g
Pre-Treatment
Cat-Ionization
Dyeing		Dyes Name↓	Preliminary		Additional	Additional
Neutralization
Fixing
Enzyme
Hot Wash
Sopping
Softening
Tinting
Dryer-	--	GAS Dryer/ Steam Dryer-					--

If dyeing process is not necessary then the garments are unloaded form the washing machine for the next procedure like Hydro + Dryer and other process. If the garments are required to store in the fabric/un-dyed form then the PH of the fabric/garments are kept above 12.5-13 to save the fabric form insects and fungus.  

A regular recipe for discharge dyeing process:-

Buyer- |XXX|,Item- leg tube, Weight -200 gm (Considered- 01 kg), Color- Sulpher Green, Water- 50 Ltr, Style_YYY

Steps↓	Water Level (Liter)	Chemical/ Dyes Name		Weight↓			PH	Temp x°C	Run Ƭʹ	Re-marks
De-Size	50	Biode		50ml (1gpl)				70	10	R/2
Pre-Treatment
Cat-Ionization	50	Mordant KM		200g (4gpl)			13	70	25	Super Heavy-R/3
		Caustic Soda		125g (2.5gpl)
		(R/T-3ʹ)+  (Raise 70°-10ʹ)+ (Addition of caustic soda @ 70°C-20ʹ)
Dyeing	50	Dyes Name↓	Preliminary		Additional	Additional		R/T- 80ºC	3ʹ - 30ʹ check and shade matching	Rins/2
		Yellow L-3GN	0.6%- 6 gm
		T-Blue GLD	0.03%- 0.3gm
		Glover Salt	1.5 kg		(30 gpl)
Neutralization
Fixing	50	Kemfix II Eco plus 200		4 gpl				50	10	R/2
Enzyme	50	Acetic Acid		0.5gpl			4.5	50	10	R/2
		Acid Enzyme (SBS)		50
Hot Wash
OUT- HYDRO- DRYER- P.P SPRAY ( P.P – KMNO4- 30 gm, Phosphoric Acid- 30 gm ; water – 1 liter)
Neutral	50	Sodium Meta Bi Sulphate		200 gm				R/T	5	R/1
PH Neutral	50	Acetic Acid		0.5 gpl			< 7	45	3	R/2
Sopping
Softening	50	Acetic Acid		0.5 gpl				40	3	No-Rins
		Softener		100 gm
UNLOAD & OUT- HYDRO- DRYER- AND COOLING AND CURING FOR NEXT PROCESS/FINISHING
Tinting
Dryer-	--	GAS Dryer/ Steam Dryer-					--

Written By,

K M Zahidur Rahman

Executive- R&D Section
Hameem Group.

Cell : 01731-932179
Email:- kmzahid.samrat@gmail.com